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Much as summer's warm days and plentiful rains lead to sun-ripened tomatoes and plump eggplants, frigid winter is the promise on which comfort food relies. Instinctively, we gravitate to the stove and the gifts it gives us. Time, now somehow a little less urgent, is given a wider berth, one generous enough to accommodate a rising yeast dough, or the baking of an apple pie, or the preparation of sauerbraten.
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