What You'll Need

• 1 lb. of CW139 candle wax (for molded candles)
• 1/2 tsp. Vybar 103 candle making additive
• 3 Tblsp. Stearic Acid candle making additive
• 1 Reddig-Glo color chip or shavings from color block
• 1 oz. candle fragrance oil
• candle wick
• scales
• double boiler (or old pan with water and melting/pouring pot)
• candlemaking thermometer
• measuring spoons
• long handled spoon or whisk
• wooden skewer or knitting needle
• metal candle mold (1 lb. wax capacity)
• wick rod

Method

1. Melt wax, vybar, and stearic acid in a double boiler over medium heat. As the wax is melting, wick the mold.

2. Insert the wick from the underside of the mold and thread it through the hole until it reaches the top of the mold. Secure the wick at the top to the wick rod that will lay across the top of the mold.

3. With the wick secured at the top of the mold, pull it taut, and secure with a wick screw on the underside of the mold.

4. Cut the wick about an inch away from the screw. Wind the wick around the screw and completely cover wick with mold sealer, pressing firmly to prevent leaking. Place mold in a tray to catch any wax which may leak out. Your mold is now ready for pouring.

5. When the wax in the melting pot has completely melted, you can color the wax. Follow the instructions for the type of dye you're using. Test for the color shade that you want by pouring a small amount of wax into some water. This will be close to your final shade. You can adjust the color intensity by the amount of color added per pound. Heat your wax to approximately 190 - 200°F. Remove from heat. If you are going to scent the wax, add the scent just before pouring. Wipe any moisture off the exterior of the pot to prevent water droplets from entering the candle mold, and slowly pour the wax into the mold.

6. Save the left over wax to refill the well that forms, due to the contracting of the cooling wax.

7. If using a water bath: Allow the mold, now containing liquid wax, to set for about a minute before placing in the water bath. This will allow any air bubbles to rise; gently tapping the sides of the mold will also help. The water bath should be cool, not cold. Before placing the mold in the bath, wrap a mold weight around the base. Be extra careful to keep water out of the mold when lowering into the bath.

8. About 30 minutes after pouring, you will notice a well forming in the cooling wax. You must insert a slender poking rod (a wick rod, skewer, or knitting needle works well for this) to break the skin on the cooling wax and relieve surface tension. You may need to poke and relieve surface tension several more times, depending on the size of the mold. Allow at least 20 minutes between each poke and refill - less if water bathing. Refill this well with the wax you set aside earlier. Pour at approximately 190°F. Refill the well only up to within 1/4" from the original pour line. The remaining ridge may be trimmed or melted off easily after removal from the mold.

9. The mold may be removed from the water bath after the second refill. The remaining cooling may then be continued at room temperature.

10. You should not attempt to remove the candle until the mold is cold to the touch. By looking closely at the edge of the candle, where it meets the mold, you will see a small space. This is where the candle has released from the mold. To extract the candle, first remove the mold sealer and wick screw. Hold your hand over the opening to catch the candle, should it slide out. Carefully hold the mold by the base, and the candle should drop into your hand.

11. If the candle does not come out of the mold, lightly tap the sides of the mold to help release any stuck areas. Do not pound on the mold. Any dents will prevent the candle from releasing and the mold will be ruined. If the candle still does not release, place it in the refrigerator for 20 minutes, and then try again. If it still won't release - as a last resort only - pour hot water over the sides of the mold. This will soften the wax and normally ruins the candle, but does permit removal without damaging the mold. Be sure to completely dry any water from the mold.

12. To remove a seam line on the candle surface, use a dull knife or metal spatula. Hold it at a right angle to the candle and slide it down the seam.

13. To make the candle stand straight, you may have to square off the base by either: 1) cutting and trimming with a knife, or 2) rotating the candle in a heated pan, melting off the irregularities, and leveling the base.

14. If surface blemishes appear on your finished candle, due to excessive handling or other reasons, buff lightly with an old nylon stocking to restore the sheen.